Day One … Friday, April 2 --
Travel day. Arrived at Heathrow Airport, 8:30 this evening after a marvelous seven-plus hour flight aboard British Air from Washington’s Dulles Airport. Trip started on a downward note. We had to endure two severe security screenings. I ought to be happy, I guess, but it is somewhat upsetting to see small children and elderly people screened as if they are terrorists. On arrival, the British Customs agent asks where we’re staying. I thought he would laugh when I said Buckingham Palace Apartments. He didn’t. After a 25-minute ride from Heathrow, we arrived at our rented flat (apartment) near Victoria Underground Station on Gillingham Street, operated by an organization called Buckingham Palace Apartments. We were a little tired but hungry. I enjoyed homemade raviolis and a salad at the Gran Paridiso Restaurant. An hour and a half-later, collapsed into bed on the fourth floor of our flat and didn’t move for nine hours.
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Day Two … Saturday, April 3 --
Up fairly early. Sun shining but it’s chilly. Good thing I brought my London Fog coat, almost left it behind. Bought our weeklong travel pass for the Underground (subway) and immediately used it. First we stopped off at Starbuck’s around the corner for a fresh cup of “filtered” coffee. Um, good, and one of the few times we have perked coffee. Most of the time, no tea, but instant coffee. So we travel to a busy Covent Garden to see street entertainers and flea markets. Superb. Enjoyed watching the ladder entertainer perform for 30 minutes, dancing and juggling and unashamedly inviting donations. I guess we have not because we ask not. Waiting in the wings is the London School of Dance of the Samba … People are walking around buying sausage rolls and pasties (not to be confused with pastries)…We walk over to Trafalgar Square later … and at the last minute decide not to see the brass rubbings at famous St. Martin-in-the-Fields Church and then rode the famous double-decker bus to Westminster Abbey, only to find it closed at 3 o’clock. We’re ogling the historic building and St. Margaret’s Church at 4:45 on this cold Saturday evening. So we just look around and look at the golden-colored Big Ben over Parliament. People are bustling around and some signs protesting war are hanging on a fence across St. Margaret’s Road, SWI, Westminster. Seems too cold for the protestors outside. No one is holding up the placards. They’re laying on a fence… It’s impossible to miss the London Eye, British Air’s gigantic ferris wheel. I’ve been on it before and our family members decided to take this ride where you can see the entire city of London, all quarters and the Thames River … I’m getting into walking shape with my legs and ankles getting a little tight … About 7 o’clock, we ride the Underground beginning at Westminster – packed with tourists and locals -- back to Victoria Station, heading home and Sainsbury’s market. We’ve walked and walked. We’re tired but feel pretty good. And, we’re ready for an evening rest.
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Day Three … Palm Sunday, April 4 --
The road to Heaven is paved with good intentions. We miss Palm Sunday Services at Westminster Abbey. Reason? Jet plane ride and walking and walking Saturday combine to require a long sleep and we get up too late. So, light breakfast and on to Victoria Station for a two-hour visit to the British Museum on Great Russell Street. A special exhibition about Iran, it’s cultural dance and lifestyle… It’s a marvelous museum. I spend a lot of time looking over the exhibits of indigenous cultures. Incredible. I broaden my education by learning about the Hentekoi and discovered what Kareau figures are at the Nicobar Islands in the Bay of Bengal. Hentekoi are wooden figures, commissioned to identify and neutralize evil spirits or misfortune… Kareau figures are in human form set up inside a house, facing the door to protect the household by warding off evil spirits. This is from the 1870s to late 1890s in the Nicobar Island, Bay of Bengal…Seems like the whole world is consumed with battling evil spirits. Lots of people have made a nice living at it. I guess I'm not "enlightened" as some of the others but I'm getting there. Actually, the sign on the door of the British Museum on Great Russell Street said, "Enlightenment."
One other thing that strikes visitors. The Brits can't even put trash cans on public streets for fear some jerk will plant a bomb…It’s awful we’re beginning to think that way in the U.S. I suppose it’s the price of freedom… I’m feeling stronger in the legs. My doctor back in Alexandria will be pleased and surprised I guess. I’m in pretty good shape and have kept on my low-carb diet fairly well… We return to Gillingham Street and decide for a little refreshment at The Elusive Camel pub (public house) before going to the flat. Usually pubs have sports events on their television screens. In this busy place, the telly airs a fashion show … models in the latest skimpy lingerie. I first thought they were Victoria’s Secret adverts (that’s British talk for commercials) but my wife reminded me to keep my eyes on her as we “refreshed”. An hour later, we walk back to the flat for an evening of early to bed, preparing for Monday’s visits.
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Day Four -- Monday, April 5 --
This is the day I’ve anticipated. We’re walking again from our flat, a block and a half, to Victoria Station, en route to Paddington Station to catch the 10:40 train to Windsor Castle. There’s nothing like a British train. I love it. It’s about 45 minutes from Paddington, beginning at Platform 13, to Windsor. We change trains at Slough (pronounced Slou-oh). From the train station at Windsor, it’s a five-minute walk uphill to the Castle. It costs ten pounds (with senior citizen discount), about $20 US, for the tour of the grounds. We can see famed Eton a short distance away and then walk through the Queen’s Doll House before touring the magnificent castle. You may remember it caught on fire in November 20, 1992 - ironically the 45th wedding anniversary of the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. It was restored in five years and opened to tourists to pay for the reconstruction. Queen Elizabeth II now has her imprint on this castle, which they say has always been her favorite. We also visit the St. George’s Chapel on the grounds and the gift shop. On my first visit about six years ago, I bought the last set of cufflinks designed by Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh. This time, no souvenirs… We enjoy watching the red-coated guard march 32 steps left, 32 steps right, stand at attention for several minutes and then repeat the process. While he’s at attention with his wooden rifle shouldered, visitors rush to be photographed with him. I’m not one of them, though… It’s getting on to 2 o’clock. We’re hungry and we find another pub, Three Tuns. Fish and chips for me. Superb. Our waitress sounds French. She’s a petite sweet-faced blond. “You from Paris?” I ask softly. “No. Polish.”… We’re gluttons for the train ride and walking. So, it’s back to London on the train and we decide another time for a visit to Covent Garden and a light salad at Maxwell’s, a favorite restaurant for me serving American cuisine. It’s always crowded… Soon, we’re exhausted. So, it’s off to our flat. I want to read the Evening Standard. I like evening newspapers. There are not many left in the world…
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Day Five – Tuesday, April 6 --
I’m up early, dressed and out the door alone for a daylong meeting of World Emergency Relief-United Kingdom. We’re having our Trustee meeting at the Regus Business Center, Northumberland Street, a block from Trafalgar Square and across the street from the Sherlock Holmes Pub. I’m going to brag here about WER. It’s one of the finest non-profit relief organizations in the world. Founded 20 years ago in the U.S. by my longtime friend, Dr. Joel MacCollam of Carlsbad, California. He also founded WER-United Kingdom 10 years ago under the laws of Great Britain by MacCollam. It has been highly successful throughout England, Wales and Scotland…I’ve been honored to be a trustee along with Dr. Charles (Chip) Watkins of Arlington, Virginia, a distinguished Washington attorney; Rev. Philip Streeter, a pastor, poet and writer of Sedelscombe, England; and Dr. Margaret Edwards, an outstanding retired educator from Surrey, England…. Dr. Alex Haxton, a veteran international relief specialist from Tunbridge Wells, England, directs WER-UK’s operations. It is amazing at the projects around the world that are the result of this charity…After our seven-hour meeting, we met for dinner -- trustees and staff -- at Rules, London’s oldest restaurant (1798) at Covent Garden. We had the King Edward Room for our 16-member group. Superb… “It serves traditional British food, specialising in classic game cookery, oysters, pies and puddings.” My wife Pat and I ate seafood. Scrumptious… I believe I would have loved being a prince. The King Edward Room got its name from its beloved King Edward VII (1901-1910) and his mistress, the actress Lillie Langtry who dined here regularly …
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Day Six – Wednesday, April 7 --
It’s on the Underground again, riding from Victoria Station to Embankment, changing for a ride to Lamberth Station and a grand visit to the British Imperial War Museum. Magnificent. It’s packed with visitors from America, Germany and English school students. It includes artifacts and military equipment from WWI and WWII from the allies and axis with exhibits including Winston Churchill, General Eisenhower, Field Marshal Montgomery. I’m struck by various displays, including a typical English home of the 1940s. Posters of all stripes encouraging Britons to stand strong and fight have prominent displays. One says, “Carrots keep you healthy and help you to see in the blackout.” Then there’s Churchill encouraging his countrymen, “Victory at all costs, victory in spite of all terror, victory however long and hard the road may be; for without victory there is no survival.” What a man! … The first Jeep, built in the U.S. by Willys Jeep, was given to a British nurse who kept it until she was 82. She finally gave it to the museum…Tanks, parts of submarines and the German’s land-style periscope. All tremendous items from history. How technology has evolved in 64 years… After our two-hour visit, we lunch about 2:50 pm at the Duke of York Pub on Victoria Street. Yep. Fish and Chips. It’s excellent…I mail postcards to family and friends… On the BBC-TV tonight, 6:15 pm, there are reports of funding to honor WWII firefighters and members of fire brigades still alive… They were heroes and saved many lives. Cyril Demaine, 99, firefighter, was to speak before a school assembly. The teacher suggested he not glorify war. Said Mr. Demaine, “Anybody’s that’s been in a war will not glorify it.”… I’m retiring early tonight, about 9:45 pm. Members of our family have gone to see The Lion King. I don’t wait up for them…
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Day Seven – Thursday, April 8 –
I’m up early today, 6:15. I take advantage of the quiet time in the kitchen of our flat for coffee, listening to BBC radio and I finish reading Daniel Silva’s latest book, A Death in Vienna. I’ve enjoyed every page. Silva lives in Washington and writes exciting books about captures of Nazi war criminals. Good stories … Midmorning, we’re off to visit Harrods, the great department store in Knightsbridge. It’s a fine shopping experience. We skim through the bookstore, the house wares department, food court and finally Pat and I eat a light lunch. We both order vegetable soup and diet drink. The vegetable soup looks and tastes like creamy asparagus soup. Delightful. The chef swears it’s vegetable soup. I take his word for it and enjoy it. After a rest on the second floor in the restaurant, we visit the first floor candy counters. I’m tempted and tempted but stand firm. No chocolate bunnies or Cadbury bars. Later, after riding the Underground back to the flat, I sneaked a Cadbury’s fruit chocolate bar out of the eyesight of Pat. At least I thought so and she reminded me I better watch it… Tonight, 6:45 pm, it’s a birthday dinner for Elizabeth in Chinatown at Lee Ho Fook near Leicester Square. Hot and sour soup and spicy shrimp…So, it’s back home on our final night of this magnificent trip. We’ve walked and dined and walked and looked and enjoyed every minute. I helped the British press everyday reading The Times, The Guardian, The Independent and the Evening Standard.
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Day Eight – Good Friday, April 9 –
It’s a bank holiday on this Good Friday. People are off for a long weekend. We’re up early, and preparing for a trip to Heathrow for our 3 o’clock flight home to Dulles-Washington. Our bags are packed, they’re heavy, and we pull them from our flat again to Victoria Station in SW1, London, and ride the train to Heathrow Airport. It takes about an hour. While it seems somewhat difficult, it’s really a fun ride on the underground to the busy airport where London’s police are busy patrolling the terminals with sidearms and machine-guns ever on the alert. Glad to see them. We get there in plenty of time and get seat assignments without difficulty for Flight 293, departure gate 25. A 2:20 pm, we get on the plane and by 3 o’clock, we’re off the ground, headed for home. It’s an easy flight, made that way with a marvelous video report on Jack Nicklaus, the great golf champion, probably because this is Masters week. Nicklaus is praised for his hard work and dedication and among his quotes, “If you accept losing every day, you’re a loser.” That’s why he is a champion and why most people are winners. They don’t accept “losing” in their lifestyle… This has been a good trip. We enjoy the hospitality and culture of England and the pleasures of living history. We touch down at Dulles about 5:30 pm Eastern Daylight Time. The Customs agent stamps our passports then welcomes us home. It’s good to be back… I’m ready for my own bed and coffee pot…
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